Opening on May 16th, the Brooklyn Museum will host "Iris Van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses," a landmark exhibition marking the Dutch designer's first major presentation in the United States. This showcase, which previously debuted at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris during 2023, is a testament to Van Herpen's unique vision. Curated by Cloé Pitiot and Louise Curtis for its initial run, the Brooklyn rendition is organized by Matthew Yokobosky, the Senior Curator of Fashion and Material Culture at the Brooklyn Museum, with support from Imani Williford and the Simons Foundation. The exhibition integrates around 140 of Van Herpen’s creations with art objects and scientific artifacts, mirroring her interdisciplinary philosophy. Yokobosky states, "Iris van Herpen embodies a new era of fashion intelligence, one that combines haute couture, scientific principles, and advanced technology to redefine the potential of apparel. This exhibition is not merely a retrospective; it's an exploration of fashion as a vibrant, evolving discipline."
Van Herpen's work fundamentally reshapes our understanding of haute couture by integrating science and technology, areas traditionally slow to be embraced by the fashion industry. She challenges established notions of value, traditionally linked to rare materials, labor-intensive handcraftsmanship, and exclusivity, by employing innovative techniques like 3D printing to create bespoke pieces and pioneering laser cutting and bonding methods. Her approach extends to material innovation; she famously used 25 million bioluminescent algae to create a "living look" dress, eschewing conventional luxurious fabrics. Furthermore, her collaborations with artists, including one who designed lace patterns inspired by wood growth, underscore her commitment to blending technology with nature. Her strong advocacy for sustainability is evident in her partnerships with organizations like Parlay for the Oceans and her use of biomaterials such as Spiber Brewed Protein, derived from fermented sugarcane, which offers a biodegradable alternative to traditional fabrics.
A key aspect of Van Herpen’s creative process is her emphasis on collaboration, working with scientists, artists, engineers, and even extreme athletes like world-champion skydiver Domitille Kiger, whose IvH garment was rigorously tested in wind tunnels. With a background in ballet, Van Herpen intuitively highlights the dynamic relationship between clothing and the body. This exhibition exemplifies how museums are increasingly leveraging fashion to attract audiences, transforming the perception of fashion from a decorative, often sidelined art form to a central element of artistic discourse. The Brooklyn Museum’s show, distinct from its Parisian predecessor, incorporates unique artifacts from its own collection, such as a 1732 edition of Ovid’s Metamorphosis, a direct reference to one of Van Herpen’s couture collections. Yokobosky contrasts this exhibition with past retrospectives, noting that Van Herpen's ongoing career means the show is not a look back, but a living narrative. He hopes visitors will feel immersed in the experience, gleaning diverse insights from the visual spectacle and intricate details, allowing for a personalized and evolving understanding of contemporary style.
Iris van Herpen's groundbreaking work encourages us to reconsider the boundaries of creativity and innovation. By seamlessly blending art, science, and technology, she not only pushes the envelope of fashion design but also inspires a forward-thinking approach to sustainability and interdisciplinary collaboration. Her vision reminds us that true progress often lies in the courageous exploration of unconventional paths, ultimately enriching our world with beauty and purpose.